Montevideo, Colonia & Punta del Este
- Colonia old town
- Tannat winery lunch
- Casapueblo sunset
Carlos Páez Vilaró's hand-moulded white home, studio and museum on the cliffs of Punta Ballena, famous for its sunset ceremony
Casapueblo looks less like a building than a sculpture: a cascade of whitewashed domes, arches, terraces and passageways spilling down the cliff at Punta Ballena. Páez Vilaró built it without plans and in open opposition to the straight line, likening it to a bread oven and to the mud nest of the hornero, a common Uruguayan bird. Inside there are no straight lines and white dominates; objects the artist brought back from his travels are set into the walls.
The Museo Taller sits at the heart of the complex. Its route takes in five rooms and three terraces, with paintings, ceramics and sculptures from different stages of the artist's career and a cinema showing documentaries about his life. Every evening the museum holds its Ceremonia al Sol, when a recording of Páez Vilaró reads a poem to the setting sun from the terraces.
Páez Vilaró first came to Punta Ballena in 1958, when the headland had no trees, roads, electricity or water. With friends he formed a company to buy 40 hectares of land, and chose a plot of about 4,870 square metres for himself. He began with a tin shed for storing old doors and windows, then, with the help of friends and fishermen, built La Pionera, a wooden studio that he later covered in cement and moulded by hand.
Over the following decades rooms were added one after another, many built ahead of visits from friends travelling from afar, and the house became a meeting place for artists, collectors, architecture students and travellers. The artist lived and worked there for the rest of his life and spent his last days in the house. The museum includes a tribute to his son Carlos Miguel, one of the 16 survivors of the 1972 Andes air crash, and the sunset ceremony has been held on the terraces every afternoon since 1994.
Casapueblo is the best-known work of an artist whose reach went far beyond Punta Ballena: Páez Vilaró worked with ceramics after meeting Picasso, painted murals in Washington and in Albert Schweitzer's hospital at Lambaréné, and painted the sails of the Uruguayan training ship Capitán Miranda. The building draws thousands of visitors from around the world, and its sunset ceremony, which the museum likens to an ecumenical mass, has become a ritual for Uruguayans and holidaymakers alike.
Visitors walk through the museum's five rooms and three terraces, watch a documentary on Páez Vilaró in the cinema room and stop at the Taberna del Rayo Verde for food with a view of the sea. The main event is the sunset: the museum recommends arriving at least 40 minutes early to find a place for the Ceremonia al Sol, which begins about 15 minutes before the sun goes down. The rest of the building operates as the Club Hotel Casapueblo, with rooms, apartments, a restaurant and a pool for overnight guests.
The museum is open every day of the year, so a visit works in any season, and the Intendencia de Maldonado singles out Punta Ballena as one of the finest places to watch the sunset. Summer, from December to March, brings the warmest evenings and the biggest crowds at the ceremony; autumn evenings are milder and quieter.
Checked against the sources on 31 October 2026. Opening times and fees can change — confirm before you go.
General guidance from our specialists, not official information.
Punta Ballena also has the Ruta Panorámica along the ridge, with views over the bays of Maldonado and Portezuelo, and the Arboretum Lussich, a forest reserve planted from 1896 with exotic and native trees. Punta del Este lies about 13 kilometres to the east and Piriápolis further west along the coast.
This guide was researched from the sources below and reviewed by our team on 31 October 2026. Facts under “Verified information” link to the page they were checked on; travel tips are general guidance. Photos are credited on each image. The ambient recording’s author and licence are shown in the sound player.