Montevideo, Colonia & Punta del Este
- Colonia old town
- Tannat winery lunch
- Casapueblo sunset
A riverside town founded by Artigas in 1816, set among vineyards and wineries in western Colonia, with a hand-turned swing bridge
Carmelo lies on both banks of the Arroyo de las Vacas, close to where the stream meets the Río de la Plata, about 80 kilometres north-west of Colonia del Sacramento. Colonia's tourism office calls the area land of vines and vineyards: around the town, in Colonia Arrúe, Colonia Estrella, El Cerro and Zagarzazú, wineries produce wines recognised in the region and form part of the department's wine route, and the office points to the nickname 'the Tuscany of South America' for this western zone.
The town itself is quiet and low-rise. Its swing bridge over the Arroyo de las Vacas, opened in 1912 and still turned by hand, is the only one of its kind in Uruguay. Across the bridge, a southern port shelters private boats and the yacht club, next to Playa Seré, while from the northern bank small boats cross the Río de la Plata to Argentina.
The Spanish built the short-lived Fort of San Lázaro in this area in 1527, and in the colonial period it formed part of the great Estancia de las Vacas, whose main establishment was at the Calera de las Huérfanas, where the Jesuits burned lime in the eighteenth century. In 1816 José Artigas ordered the village of Las Víboras to be moved to the mouth of the Arroyo de las Vacas, and Carmelo counts 12 February 1816 as its foundation day; it is the only surviving town founded by Uruguay's national hero.
The swing bridge was made in Germany and assembled under the engineers Juan Smith and Eduardo Chiappori, opening on 1 May 1912. Vessels swept by the current struck it in 1951 and again in December 2018, when three boats pushed its 160-tonne central span off its pivot; it was repaired and reopened on 23 February 2019 with new lighting.
Carmelo is the second-largest town in Colonia Department, with about 20,000 people at the 2023 census. Its economy has long been tied to the river, quarries and agriculture, and today winemaking and tourism are part of everyday life. The departmental events calendar includes a Fiesta de la Uva, a grape festival held in late January.
The main reason to come is wine: the wineries around town open for visits, tastings, vineyard walks and, in season, the harvest, and some offer restaurants and accommodation. Colonia's tourism office also suggests sailing on the Arroyo de las Vacas, relaxing at Playa Seré, exploring the native woodland and old quarries at El Cerro, and touring the area on horseback or by bicycle. History lovers visit the Calera de las Huérfanas, Estancia Narbona, the Molino and Puente Castells (Puente Camacho) and the Santuario del Carmen.
The area can be visited all year. Late summer is harvest season, and the departmental calendar lists a grape festival in late January. Spring and autumn are pleasant for cycling and riding between wineries, while summer suits Playa Seré and the river.
Checked against the sources on 31 October 2026. Opening times and fees can change — confirm before you go.
General guidance from our specialists, not official information.
North of Carmelo, Punta Gorda marks the meeting of the Uruguay river and the Río de la Plata, and the port town of Nueva Palmira lies about 25 kilometres away. Zagarzazú, with an airfield and a golf hotel, is on the coast in between. Conchillas, with its English-built architecture, is on the road back towards Colonia del Sacramento.
This guide was researched from the sources below and reviewed by our team on 31 October 2026. Facts under “Verified information” link to the page they were checked on; travel tips are general guidance. Photos are credited on each image. The ambient recording’s author and licence are shown in the sound player.