Saint-Malo

The old town grew on a granite island linked to the mainland only by a sand spit, and its ramparts date back to the twelfth century, largely rebuilt in granite after a fire in 1661 and extended in the eighteenth century. Saint-Malo's ship-owners and sailors grew rich on fishing, trade and privateering: Jacques Cartier, who explored the St Lawrence River in Canada, was born here, and the corsairs René Duguay-Trouin, who captured Rio de Janeiro in 1711, and Robert Surcouf are among its famous names.

In late August and early September 1944, during the battle to free the town from German occupation, shelling and bombing almost totally destroyed the walled city. It was rebuilt between 1948 and 1960, largely in its old style and granite, so that today the Intra-Muros looks historic though most of its buildings are post-war. The town is now a busy port for ferries to Britain and the Channel Islands and the start of the Route du Rhum sailing race.

Saint-Malo is a working port as well as a resort, with ferries, fishing boats and yachts in the harbour basins. Brittany's crêpes and buckwheat galettes, salted-butter caramel, oysters from nearby Cancale and seafood platters are everyday fare, washed down with cider. In summer the population rises sharply, while out of season the town returns to a quieter local rhythm.