Dalmatian Coast & Islands
- Dubrovnik walls
- Hvar & Korčula
- Split old town
Long, sunny Dalmatian island of lavender, vineyards, a Venetian-era harbour town and ancient Greek fields
Hvar stretches for 68 km across the central Adriatic, a ridge of pine woods, stone terraces, lavender fields and vineyards that drops to small bays and harbour towns. Its best-known face is Hvar Town, where a broad stone square opens onto a harbour full of boats, overlooked by a hilltop fortress with views out to the Pakleni Islands.
Beyond the town the island is quieter and more agricultural. Stari Grad, on the north coast, is one of the oldest towns in Croatia and the main arrival port for car ferries, while the fields of the Stari Grad Plain are still divided by walls laid out by ancient Greek settlers. Jelsa and Vrboska add smaller harbours, and inland villages keep old traditions of wine, olive oil and lavender.
Greek colonists from the island of Paros founded Pharos, on the site of today's Stari Grad, in 384 BC, and divided the fertile plain behind it into regular plots bounded by dry-stone walls. That ancient field system, still farmed with grapes and olives, was inscribed by UNESCO as the Stari Grad Plain in 2008.
In the Middle Ages the islanders sought Venetian protection, and for long periods between the 13th and 18th centuries Hvar Town served as an important Venetian naval base. The town was sacked during an Ottoman raid in 1571, and the hilltop fortress was rebuilt after a gunpowder explosion in 1579. The arsenal by the harbour, rebuilt in the early 17th century, has a theatre on its upper floor that opened in 1612 and is regarded as one of the oldest public theatres in Europe.
When Venice moved its fleet elsewhere in the 18th century, the town declined, but under Habsburg rule in the 19th century a local hygienic society, founded in 1868, began promoting Hvar for visitors, marking the start of tourism on the island.
Island life follows the agricultural year: grape harvest in early autumn, olive picking towards winter, and lavender, grown for aromatic oils and soaps, which has earned Hvar its nickname as the island of lavender. Wine is central to local culture, with red Plavac Mali grown on the steep southern slopes and white wines from the central plain between Stari Grad and Jelsa. Villages keep strong parish traditions and a close-knit way of life.
In Hvar Town, wander the stone lanes around St Stephen's Square, climb the path through pine trees to the fortress for the panorama, and visit the Franciscan monastery on the waterfront. Water taxis and small boats cross to the Pakleni Islands for swimming in clear coves and walks among pines.
Elsewhere on the island, explore Stari Grad's old streets and the walled fields of the plain, follow country lanes past vineyards and lavender, and visit the harbours of Jelsa and Vrboska. A hire car or scooter makes it easy to reach inland villages and quieter bays along the south coast.
May, June and September are ideal: the sea is warm enough for swimming, the countryside is green or golden, and the island is less crowded than in midsummer. July and August are hot and very busy in Hvar Town, which has a lively evening scene. From November to March many tourist services close, though the island is mild and pleasant for walking.
Checked against the sources on 27 October 2026. Opening times and fees can change — confirm before you go.
General guidance from our specialists, not official information.
Car ferries link Split with Stari Grad, and another car ferry runs between Sućuraj on the island's eastern tip and Drvenik on the mainland. Catamarans connect Hvar Town with Split, Brač, Korčula, Vis and Lastovo. Hvar Town, Stari Grad and Jelsa each have harbourside markets, cafés and accommodation, and the Pakleni Islands are reached by small boats from Hvar Town's harbour.
This guide was researched from the sources below and reviewed by our team on 27 October 2026. Facts under “Verified information” link to the page they were checked on; travel tips are general guidance. Photos are credited on each image. The ambient recording’s author and licence are shown in the sound player.