Lake Kivu

Lake Kivu lies on the frontier between Rwanda and the Democratic Republic of the Congo, and its shores have long linked the two countries through trade and fishing. Rubavu's waterfront still shows its colonial-era past in the old mansions, hotels and bars along the shore, while Karongi, formerly Kibuye, grew up around the scenic bays halfway down the lake.

The lake is geologically unusual: its deep water holds large quantities of dissolved methane and carbon dioxide, which scientists monitor closely. Today the Rwandan shore is a key part of the country's tourism circuit, linked end to end by the Congo Nile Trail.

Fishing remains central to life on the lake. Crews in wooden canoes, joined in threes by long eucalyptus poles, head out in the evening and fish through the night, singing as they paddle to keep rhythm. Weekends bring families from Kigali to the beaches of Rubavu, and markets in the lakeside towns sell fresh fish, bananas and produce from the surrounding hills. Rubavu also sits right on the border with the DRC, giving the town a busy, cross-border character.