Dotonbori, Osaka

Dotonbori grew from a canal dug in the early 17th century with the backing of local entrepreneurs. Construction began in 1612 and the waterway was completed by 1615; the district takes its name from Yasui Doton, one of its backers, who died during the Siege of Osaka. In 1626 permission was granted to move theatres to the canal, and for centuries Dotonbori was celebrated as one of Japan's foremost theatre districts, with kabuki and bunraku playhouses lining the southern bank. Chikamatsu Monzaemon's famous puppet play The Love Suicides at Sonezaki premiered at the Takemoto-za in 1703.

In the 20th century cinema and cafes replaced many of the playhouses, but the Shochiku-za, opened in 1923, still stages kabuki. The first Glico Running Man sign went up in 1935; the current LED version, the sixth, was installed in 2014.

Osaka has long called itself the nation's kitchen, and Dotonbori is where that reputation is on show. Locals are proud of their down-to-earth, humorous food culture: kuidaore captures the idea of happily spending everything on eating well. The district is part of Minami, Osaka's southern downtown and a centre of youth culture, and the Ebisu Bridge area is a popular meeting point. Alcohol is widely served in the bars and izakaya, and pork and seafood are common in local dishes, so travellers with dietary requirements should ask before ordering.