Milan to Florence: Parmesan, Pisa & Chianti
- Balsamic vinegar tasting in Modena
- Parmigiano Reggiano dairy visit with lunch
- Guided walks in Pisa, Lucca and Siena
Baroque square on the outline of Domitian's stadium, at the heart of Rome's old town
Piazza Navona feels less like a square than an open-air theatre. Its long oval follows the outline of an ancient Roman stadium, and its three fountains punctuate the space from end to end, with Bernini's Fountain of the Four Rivers rising in the middle beneath an Egyptian-style obelisk. Facing it, the concave facade and dome of Sant'Agnese in Agone complete one of the great Baroque scenes of Rome.
Around the piazza lies the Centro Storico, the dense historic core packed into a bend of the Tiber. Its cobbled lanes, small squares and workshops reward unhurried wandering: Campo de' Fiori and its morning market, the antiques shops of Via dei Coronari, and the Pantheon just a few minutes away. This is the Rome of painted facades, church bells and evening strolls, and the best way to know it is on foot.
The piazza stands on the site of the Stadium of Domitian, built in 86 AD for athletic contests; its name is thought to derive from the Latin agones, 'games', and remains of the stadium lie several metres below today's street level. In the 17th century Pope Innocent X, of the Pamphilj family whose palace faces the square, transformed it into a showcase of Baroque Rome.
Bernini's Fountain of the Four Rivers, completed in 1651, represents the Danube, Ganges, Nile and Rio de la Plata, and is crowned by an obelisk brought from the Circus of Maxentius on the Via Appia. The Fontana del Moro and the Fountain of Neptune at either end are based on designs by Giacomo della Porta. The church of Sant'Agnese in Agone was begun by Girolamo and Carlo Rainaldi and substantially reshaped by Borromini. From the 17th to the mid-19th century the square was partly flooded on summer weekends so Romans could cool off. Piazza Navona is named by UNESCO among the elements of the Historic Centre of Rome World Heritage property.
The Centro Storico is still home to Romans, and in the early morning you will see residents buying bread, crossing the piazza on their way to work and stopping for coffee. Evenings bring the passeggiata, the relaxed social stroll, while the Christmas fair in Piazza Navona is a long-standing family tradition for the city.
Spend time simply sitting on the edge of the fountains or a bench and watching the piazza's life: portrait artists, musicians and families taking an evening stroll. Then step into Sant'Agnese in Agone and seek out the excavated remains of the Stadium of Domitian beneath the northern end of the square to see where it all began.
From here, lose yourself in the lanes of the Centro Storico: walk to Campo de' Fiori for its morning market, browse Via dei Coronari, visit the Pantheon and Sant'Ivo alla Sapienza, and cross to the Tiber for views towards Castel Sant'Angelo. In December and early January a traditional Christmas market brings stalls and lights to the piazza.
Spring and autumn are ideal for walking the old town. Summer evenings are lively and warmer than they look, so plan walks for after sunset. December is atmospheric thanks to the Christmas market, though the square gets very busy. Early morning is the most peaceful time in any season, before tour groups and street vendors arrive.
Checked against the sources on 27 October 2026. Opening times and fees can change — confirm before you go.
General guidance from our specialists, not official information.
The Pantheon is about five minutes' walk east, and Campo de' Fiori, with its morning produce market, a few minutes south. Corso Vittorio Emanuele II, just south of the piazza, is served by many city bus routes, while the Tiber embankment and Ponte Umberto I are a short walk to the north-west. The area has plenty of cafes, gelaterias and bakeries, and many visitors choose the Centro Storico as a base because the main sights are walkable.
This guide was researched from the sources below and reviewed by our team on 27 October 2026. Facts under “Verified information” link to the page they were checked on; travel tips are general guidance. Photos are credited on each image.