Milan to Florence: Parmesan, Pisa & Chianti
- Balsamic vinegar tasting in Modena
- Parmigiano Reggiano dairy visit with lunch
- Guided walks in Pisa, Lucca and Siena
Ancient cave dwellings and rock-cut churches carved into a ravine in Basilicata (UNESCO)
Few places in Europe look as ancient as Matera. On the edge of the Gravina ravine, the two Sassi districts, Sasso Barisano and Sasso Caveoso, pile up in a honey-coloured jumble of cave dwellings, terraces, stairways and church facades, with the 13th-century cathedral standing on the Civita ridge between them. Across the gorge, the Murgia plateau is dotted with rock-cut churches and caves.
Once a symbol of poverty, the Sassi have been transformed into one of southern Italy's most memorable destinations, with restored cave homes now housing museums, cafes and guesthouses. At dusk, when lights come on across the stone houses, the town looks like a nativity scene, which is one reason film-makers keep returning.
UNESCO describes Matera as an outstanding example of a rock-cut settlement, first occupied in the Palaeolithic and inhabited more or less continuously ever since. Cave living intensified from the 8th century, when the town spread beyond the walled Civita, its first core, and in the 13th century a Romanesque cathedral was built on the ridge. Later districts, including 15th-century Casalnuovo and the 17th and 18th-century Piano, grew up on the plateau above.
By the 20th century overcrowding and poor sanitation in the Sassi had become a national concern, and from 1952 the government relocated residents to new housing. The districts stood largely empty until a 1986 law opened the way to restoration, and people began to return. UNESCO inscribed the Sassi and the Park of the Rupestrian Churches in 1993, and Matera was European Capital of Culture in 2019.
Matera's story of decline and revival is a source of local pride. Families who were moved out in the 1950s still remember life in the caves, and many residents have been involved in restoring the Sassi. The town's patron festival, the Festa della Bruna on 2 July, ends with the dramatic destruction of a papier-mache float, and traditional foods such as the large, crusty pane di Matera and dishes made with peppers and legumes reflect the region's rural roots.
Spend at least a day wandering the Sassi, following lanes and stairways between viewpoints, and visit a furnished cave house to understand how families once lived alongside their animals. Step into rock-cut churches to see their frescoes, and go underground at the Palombaro Lungo to appreciate how the town collected water.
For the classic view, cross the ravine to the Murgia plateau on foot or by car and look back at the Sassi, ideally late in the afternoon. In the evening, join the passeggiata in the Piano and return to the edge of the Sassi to see the stone houses lit up.
April to June and September to October bring pleasant temperatures for walking the many steps of the Sassi. July and August are hot, with strong sun reflecting off the stone, so explore early and late in the day. Winter is quiet and atmospheric but can be cold and wet, and the stone paths become slippery after rain.
Checked against the sources on 27 October 2026. Opening times and fees can change — confirm before you go.
General guidance from our specialists, not official information.
The Piano, the newer town above the Sassi, has the main squares, shops, cafes and bakeries, and Piazza Vittorio Veneto sits above the Palombaro Lungo cistern. The Murgia plateau across the ravine is part of a protected park with walking trails and cave churches. Alberobello and the trulli of the Itria Valley in Puglia are within reach for a day trip.
This guide was researched from the sources below and reviewed by our team on 27 October 2026. Facts under “Verified information” link to the page they were checked on; travel tips are general guidance. Photos are credited on each image. The ambient recording’s author and licence are shown in the sound player.