Hong Kong Harbour Break
- Victoria Peak
- Dim sum tour
- Lantau Big Buddha
A restored police station, magistracy and prison complex and a former police quarters turned design hub
The slopes between Central and the Mid-Levels hold some of Hong Kong's most rewarding heritage. Tai Kwun, the former Central Police Station compound on Hollywood Road, brings together a colonial police headquarters, a magistracy and Victoria Prison, restored and reopened in 2018 as a centre for heritage and arts. Its former parade ground, now lined with restaurants and cafes, is a calm square in the middle of the city.
A few minutes' walk west, PMQ occupies the site of the Central School and the later Police Married Quarters, now home to studios and shops of more than 100 local designers. Linking them all is the Central-Mid-Levels Escalator, a chain of covered escalators that carries people up the hill past cafes, galleries and street-side restaurants.
The Central Police Station compound was first built in 1864 and expanded many times; its grand Police Headquarters Block on Hollywood Road dates from 1919. Beside it stand the Former Central Magistracy, completed in 1914, and Victoria Prison. Together they represented law and order in colonial Hong Kong. The police station was decommissioned in 2004, and the group was revitalised under the leadership of the Hong Kong Jockey Club, with two new contemporary buildings added. Tai Kwun, meaning 'big station', opened to the public in 2018; the Central Police Station and Central Magistracy were declared monuments in 1995.
PMQ has an equally layered past. In 1862 the Central School, the first government school to offer Western education to the public, opened nearby; it moved to the corner of Aberdeen Street and Hollywood Road in 1889 and was later renamed Queen's College. Dr Sun Yat-sen studied at the school in 1884. After wartime damage the buildings were demolished, and in 1951 the Police Married Quarters were built on the site for families of officers at the Central Police Station. Vacated in 2000, the quarters reopened as PMQ in 2014.
The Central-Mid-Levels Escalator opened in 1993 and runs about 800 metres from Queen's Road Central to Conduit Road.
This hillside neighbourhood mixes office workers, long-time residents and creative businesses. At lunchtime and in the evenings the lanes around the escalator fill with people heading to cafes and restaurants, while Tai Kwun's courtyards host performances, talks and exhibitions that draw a local crowd. PMQ's design markets and festivals are an important showcase for Hong Kong's independent makers.
Start at Tai Kwun: wander the courtyards, see the heritage exhibitions in the old prison blocks, and check what is on at the contemporary art galleries. Guided tours explain the buildings and their conservation. Then follow Hollywood Road west to PMQ to browse locally designed fashion, jewellery, ceramics and homeware, or join one of its craft workshops.
Ride the Central-Mid-Levels Escalator uphill (it runs upward from mid-morning until midnight) to explore the bars and restaurants of the surrounding streets, and walk down through the lanes afterwards. Combine the area with Man Mo Temple and the antiques shops of Sheung Wan for a full day of heritage on foot.
October to December offers dry, mild weather that is ideal for walking the steep streets. Spring is pleasant but humid, and summer is hot with frequent heavy showers, although Tai Kwun and PMQ have plenty of covered space. Weekends are livelier, with more events, while weekday mornings are quieter for photography.
Checked against the sources on 27 October 2026. Opening times and fees can change — confirm before you go.
General guidance from our specialists, not official information.
Jamia Mosque, Hong Kong's oldest mosque, stands on Shelley Street beside the Mid-Levels Escalator and holds daily prayers. The surrounding streets are packed with cafes and restaurants, including halal-certified options listed by HKTB. Central MTR station and the Peak Tram's Garden Road terminus are within walking distance downhill, and Man Mo Temple is a short walk west.
This guide was researched from the sources below and reviewed by our team on 27 October 2026. Facts under “Verified information” link to the page they were checked on; travel tips are general guidance. Photos are credited on each image. The ambient recording’s author and licence are shown in the sound player.